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Chile: better wine from cooler climes

Chile: better wine from cooler climes


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TV scheduling might not be at its peak for anyone not in love with the World Cup, so it’s only right us foodies get a fix too. With the world’s eyes focused on Brazil, and South America on the world’s stage I wanted to bring one of its (relative) underdogs in wine (and football) to the fore.

Don’t be fooled by this underdog status however. Chile’s high-energy and attack-minded football will make them one of the most watchable teams at the tournament this summer, just as their incredible diversity make them an increasingly exciting and innovative nation for wine.

If there were ever a truly unadulterated marvel of the wine world, Chile would be the one. Its length, (2,656 miles or 4,274km from north to south), combined with the natural forces of the Atacama dessert to the north, the Andes Mountains to the East, the Patagonian ice fields to the south, and the Pacific Ocean to the west all make Chile a vinicultural utopia with incredible range in terroirs. These all-round defences also allow for some of most widespread organic practices in the wine world today because they provide natural barriers from pests and diseases. In fact, Chile was one of the only places on Earth not to be affected by the vine pest phylloxera in the 1850s,which wiped out most vine stocks across the planet.

The vineyards of Chile have enough variety to make your eyes (and mouth!) water, yet it’s hard to conjure up anything past the juicy table wine merlots and cabernets that clog up the wine shelves in supermarkets. However, times are changing. In a country once satisfied with simply churning out one-dimensional sun-baked reds, there are now delicate pinots, sauvignon blancs and even rieslings being produced here, and the quality is fantastic. Over the last 20 years growers and winemakers have started to explore Chile’s cooler climates and take advantage of its vast potential. In super-cool Casablanca, situated to the west of the capital Santiago, exciting progress is afoot.

For example, Cono Sur’s 2007 pinot noir displays gloriously fresh summer fruits while the age and cool climate give the wine firm acidity and elegance. Their 2007 riesling is pretty superb too; laced with clean grapefruit notes and a beautiful minerality, perfect for a sunny day.

So if you’re in your local wine shop or supermarket and reaching for your usual tipple, pause for a minute and browse the lesser known Chilean wines. You might just be pleasantly surprised, and, who knows, could this be their year to gatecrash Brazil’s party and become far more than an attractive sideshow at the World Cup this summer.

Header image by Leonora Enking

For more countries from Jamie’s Foodie World Cup, click here.


Australian Winemakers Are Thrilled with the 2018 Harvest

As the 2018 harvest winds down in Australia, vintners are reporting a mostly uneventful vintage. They say yields are slightly lower than last year's, but they are pleased with the resulting wines. Still, with an entire continent's worth of wine regions, the growing season brought varied results. Leading vintners gave Wine Spectator their local reports.

Quantity down, quality up in Barossa and McLaren Vale

In South Australia, Matt Gant of First Drop wines says the wines of 2018 will be rich and full-flavored, less aromatic and pretty than the 2017s. "Whilst our whites from the cooler climes of Adelaide Hills look solid, our McLaren Cabernet Sauvignon posted another good year, making for 10 good to excellent vintages since 2009," he said.

Soul Growers' Stuart Bourne is very enthusiastic about what he saw in the Barossa. "I am absolutely stoked with what we have made this year, and I think vintage 2018 would easily rate a 9.25 out of 10 for me as a vintage score."

Bourne says the growing season was good, with average rain in winter, but below average rain in the spring. The summer was warm but without any heat waves, and an extended summer meant harvest could go at an easy pace. "Nothing untoward and no freaky bits," said Bourne.

Ian Hongell, chief winemaker at Torbreck, described it this way: "Harvest was late, flavors came on very slowly and the dry, mild conditions allowed fruit to ripen slowly. We were able to hang safely without the risk of weather. It was pretty ideal."

But the reduced rainfall meant lower yields down in the Barossa, as much as 15 to 20 percent. Many feel this is part of the reason for the more concentration winemakers are seeing in their wines. For Michael Twelftree of Two Hands, irrigation was necessary. "This increased berry size and extended veraison, as warm nights, especially in the Barossa, did not give any respite." He adds that he believes 2018 will rival 2016 and 2010, with Grenache and McLaren Vale Shiraz the standouts in his lineup.

Yields were also down in McLaren Vale. "After bud burst, a few heavy wind days caused some canopy damage to more advanced growing blocks," reported Sarah Marquis of Mollydooker. Despite this, McLaren vintners are calling the vintage a win. "2018 went exactly to plan and was really well-paced," said Marquis, reporting impressive reds across the board.

Chris Carpenter of Hickinbotham says ripening was "almost perfect," with short heat spikes followed by moderated temperatures. "Couldn't ask for better," he said. "Just a great harvest."

A balanced year out West

On Australia's west coast, Margaret River vintners report optimal ripening conditions and an exceptional, slightly early harvest. According to Leeuwin senior winemaker Tim Lovett, they harvested their white grapes before a rain spell arrived in the middle of March. "This topped up the soil moisture levels for the reds, without the usual requirements of irrigation," he said.

"A special feature of this season was its extremely gentle nature, without any heat spikes," said winemaker Bruce Dukes of Margaret River's Domaine Naturaliste. He believes that protected the aromatics in the resulting wines.

Some Margaret River vintners report healthy, balanced yields others report variability. Leeuwin Chardonnay yields were down slightly, while Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon yields were up. "But the purity and clarity of fruit were higher than usual, even with the higher yields," said Lovett.

Will Berliner of Cloudburst was one of the vintners that found 2018's growing and ripening conditions superlative, with excellent pacing. "One standout factor was the unprecedentedly massive blossoming for the marri trees," said Berliner of the native trees that are closely related to eucalyptus and the myrtle family. All that marri fruit kept birds away from his Chardonnay. "It enabled me to pick small, individualized micro-cuvées of Chardonnay at optimum flavors and ripeness." He believes that his wines are showing depth and purity.

Cool in Victoria and Hunter Valley

In Victoria's Yarra Valley, vintners report a significant amount of rain during the growing season. "That replenished groundwater and helped the vines maintain good, healthy canopies," reported Steve Flamsteed of Sexton.

A side effect was a larger-than-average number of clusters. "This meant we spent a lot of time in the vineyard, cluster-thinning (green harvesting) back to one cluster per shoot," said Flamsteed. Even with thinning, yields were up about 20 percent. "Having such a successful crop set allowed us to do a very selective fruit removal and only really demand from the vine the ripening of one cluster per shoot."

Elsewhere in Victoria, Matt Fowles of Fowles Wine in the Strathbogie Ranges reports dry and cool weather. "It was noticeably cool this year. Since late February I left the house every single day with a jumper or jacket on. We are a cool-climate region for sure, but this is still quite unusual." But he's not complaining. "Cooler weather led to excellent acid retention."

To the northeast in Hunter Valley, Iain Riggs, chief winemaker at Brokenwood, calls it a "stress-free" harvest. "We joked that 2014 red wines in the Hunter Valley were 11 out of 10. I think that some individual vineyards from 2017 and 2108 will be better than those from 2014."

Stay on top of important wine stories with Wine Spectator's free Breaking News Alerts.


Recipe Summary

  • 1 cup water
  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 4 single-serving hibiscus tea bags
  • 2 3/4 cups mango nectar
  • 1 cup Hibiscus Syrup
  • 1/4 cup fresh lime juice, plus more for rimming glasses
  • 1 medium mango, peeled and chopped
  • Chile-lime seasoning (such as Tajín)
  • Crushed ice
  • Mineral water (such as Topo Chico), Cava, or blanco tequila and Ancho Reyes ancho chile liqueur, for serving
  • Lime wedges (optional)

Bring 1 cup water, sugar, and salt to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high. Boil, stirring often, until sugar is dissolved, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Add tea bags, and let steep 8 minutes. Remove and discard tea bags. Use immediately, or cover and chill up to 1 week.

Stir together mango nectar, hibiscus syrup, lime juice, and chopped mango. Cover and chill at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours.

Rim 8- to 10-ounce glasses with lime juice and chile-lime seasoning. Fill glasses halfway with crushed ice. Add about 4 ounces cooler to each glass. Top each serving with 1/4 cup mineral water for a mocktail, 1/4 cup (2 ounces) Cava for a spritz, or 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) tequila and 1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) Ancho Reyes ancho chile liqueur for a cocktail. Garnish with lime wedges, if desired.


Chile: better wine from cooler climes - Recipes

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SKYLINE CHILI (ORIGINAL RECIPE)
Rating: 4.5 / 5 · Reviews: 50 Page 1 of 3

Great forum, just found you guys. I'm obsessed with duplicating this recipe. Is the "deep red in color liquid" tomato juice? beet juice?, cherry juice? pomegranate juice? Hawaiian Punch. Red wine? Rose petal water? Guinness Stout? -- (trivia: actual color is red).

I have been making a batch of "Cincinnati Chile" every week for 5 months now. I'm driving my wife crazy! I have found that just when I think I have it, I'll try to tweak it a little more and ruin the batch to the point where I can't undue the damage from the last ingredient. I was convinced that the spice Mace was in it, but sadly I'm wrong. Thanks for all your help!

This is the closest recipe I've tried yet! Having knowledge of some of the real recipe (definitely not the entire recipe) I do know that there is no chocolate and they use granulated onion, not fresh. Something not stressed in this version is the importance of getting the proper consistency and the key is how the beef is handled prior to heating. There are a couple ways to make sure it comes out perfectly:

1) Place the beef in a stand mixer and slowly beat with the paddle or whisk attachment and slowly add the cold water, continuing to mix until it is a sloppy mixture with no clumps at all, several minutes.

2) Combine the beef and water in the pot (no heat) and mix like crazy with a wooden spoon or whisk and let the mixture slowly come to room temperature mixing occasionally.

The above methods will then allow you to start the cooking process with the absolute-fine consistency just like in the restaurants. It's a must!


The Five Best Wine Road Trips in the U.S.

I&aposve been fortunate to travel to many wine regions, but somehow I have never fully explored the one right outside my door: Virginia. After being shut in for months and on the brink of going stir-crazy, though, I decided it was time to escape D.C. for greener pastures—ones that included wine. Virginia wine country is vast, with over 300 wineries and 4,000 acres of grapes, but I narrowed it down with this plan: I would visit only wineries with wines I had never tasted before. After achieving a deep, deep familiarity with the walls of my home, I was definitely in search of something new.

Casanel Vineyards & Winery, my first stop, was a little over an hour from home. Tucked down a winding road near Leesburg, in the heart of Virginia horse country, Casanel is run by the DeSouza family here, Katie DeSouza Henley and Tyler Henley craft some of Virginia&aposs best Petit Verdot. Though the DeSouzas also grow Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Cabernet Sauvignon, they focus on the grapes they feel best serve Virginia: Petit Verdot, Carmenère, and the native grape Norton.

Winemaker Katie DeSouza Henley feels Petit Verdot has the potential to be a signature Virginia wine: "The grapes are smaller, darker, and might not produce as much as Merlot, but it&aposs concentrated. And it&aposs considered an underdog, just like Virginia. People discredit it, but we don&apost. I feel we can take this blending grape and make an elegant varietal wine that is inherently Virginia."

From Casanel, the short drive to Otium Cellars was as scenic as they come: stone and brick homes, winding roads, horses grazing. Otium owner Max Bauer is a rare bird in Virginia because he concentrates on Austrian and German grape varieties𠅋laufränkisch, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner, and Grauburgunder (the German term for Pinot Gris). The winery&aposs Blaufränkisch and Grüner Veltliner were particularly delicious, with softer peppery notes than their Austrian counterparts I feel they should be on everyone&aposs radar.

Charlottesville&aposs The Wool Factory is a historic wool mill complex from 1868 recently converted to restaurants, shops, and an event space. Inside, Selvedge Brewing offers craft beers and more casual fare, while Broadcloth (opening soon) will be fine dining from executive chef Tucker Yoder and executive pastry chef Rachel De Jong. The unpretentious lunch I had felt like a home-cooked meal, but one made better by the lineup of wines, such as a crisp Blanc de Blancs Traditional Méthode Traditionnelle (made by acclaimed Virginia winemaker Claude Thibault). Paired with chicken liver mousse, it was a divine combination of fat and salt. And if the smoked mushroom tacos are on the menu, they are a must-try.

After lunch, it was time to head to Gabriele Rausse Winery. Rausse is considered the "father of Virginia wine" and did stints at Barboursville Vineyards and Jefferson Vineyards before branching out on his own in 1997. My wine rack thanks him because his 2017 Baer Ridge Vineyards Cabernet Franc Reserve is now on constant rotation in my glass. I also highly recommend hiring a driver to visit Ankida Ridge. The winery is quite a distance from downtown Charlottesville, about a 75-minute drive, but more than worth the trek. Co-owner and vineyard manager Christine Vrooman will welcome you as a member of the family, and the wines match her personality: vibrant, expressive, and focused.

Listen, I am not a member of the anything-but-Chardonnay club. I love Chardonnay, and Hark Vineyards makes one that truly represents Virginia. It doesn&apost have the warmth-driven richness of California nor the finesse of Burgundy, but it&aposs round and fragrant, with a savory character that lingers. "This is Virginia wine and speaks to Virginia," winemaker Jake Busching told me. "So when you start drinking this Chardonnay, it&aposs complex and interesting because for most people it&aposs an entirely new terroir."

Even so, I admit that at Fleurie restaurant later that night in Charlottesville, I cheated on Virginia with a glass of Champagne Bauget-Jouette, at least until wine director Melissa Boardman suggested a side-by-side comparison of Virginia and a few of the many international wines on her list during dinner. Linden Vineyards&apos Late Harvest Petit Manseng and a Domaine Rousset Peyraguey Sauternes both paired beautifully with chef Jose de Brito&aposs crème brûlພ and proved yet again that Virginia wines can go head to head with wines from anywhere else in the world.

The Quirk Hotel Charlottesville (rooms from $200, destinationhotels.com), where I stayed during my trip, blends modern and vintage touches. A boutique art hotel and a great home base for a Virginia wine trip, it has paintings and sculptures from national and regional artists on display around the property, as well as a substantial gallery. After enjoying a Pink Breeze—vodka, cucumber, raspberry, lime, and Prosecco—in one of the rooftop bar&aposs heated igloos, I headed to dinner at the Pink Grouse restaurant, just off the hotel lobby. After all, I didn&apost want to stay out too late—I still had to pack up all the wine I&aposd purchased before heading home.

2018 Stinson Vineyards Wildkat ($28)

This aromatic Rkatsiteli, an unusual white variety originally from the Republic of Georgia, is thirst-quenching in the best way.

2017 Gabriele Rausse Baer Ridge Vineyards Cabernet Franc Reserve ($34)

Rausse&aposs Cabernet Franc is elegant and ageworthy but also tastes so good that it deserves to be opened now.

2017 Hark Vineyards Chardonnay ($36)

Balanced and complex, this white has a whisper of oak—ideal for less-is-more Chardonnay fans.

2017 Casanel Vineyards & Winery Petit Verdot ($46)

This juicy, darkly fruity Petit Verdot reminds me of blackberry cobbler laced with rich tannins. It makes you wish more people made single-varietal Petit Verdot luckily, Casanel does.

2018 Ankida Ridge Pinot Noir ($52)

Simply one of the best Pinot Noirs coming out of Virginia, this bottle is bursting with red fruit and texture.

A wine drive through Hill Country.

If Napa Valley is California&aposs quintessential wine country, then the Hill Country plays that role for Texas. Getting here is as simple as a quick weekend flight to Austin, and with wildflower season in full swing, late spring is the perfect time to visit𠅌owboy boots and convertible rental car optional.

On a recent trip, I based myself at Camp Lucy, just outside of Dripping Springs. Don&apost let the name fool you: Camp Lucy is a luxe outdoor hideaway on nearly 300 acres of untouched wilderness. With exquisitely decorated cabins and a lengthy menu of amenities and activities (hatchet throwing, anyone?), the place is simply enchanting.

My first morning, I headed out U.S. Highway 290, the central corridor for Hill Country wineries, making my first stop at Ron Yates Wines, where I snagged a shady seat on the outdoor patio. Yates, with his long hair, full beard, and flip-flops, roamed from table to table, doling out splashes of a newly bottled 2019 Merlot. "I grew up in a place where everything was always comfortable and easygoing," Yates, who&aposs originally from nearby Marble Falls, told me. "I wanted to bring that same feeling of casualness to our guests."

Just a few miles away, at Sandy Road Vineyards (run by Yates&apos associate winemaker, Reagan Sivadon), a treehouse platform overlooking the vineyard proved the perfect spot to sip a fruity pét-nat rosé made from the Spanish Prieto Picudo variety.

That evening, I returned to Camp Lucy for dinner at Tillie&aposs restaurant, which was built from a reclaimed 19th-century Vietnamese town hall with towering ironwood rafters that had been transported to central Texas. A plate of orange-chile-sauced fried brussels sprouts followed by an entrພ of red snapper in a creamy Meunière sauce proved a soulful meal, and I strolled back to my cabin beneath the hypnotic humming of cicadas.

Day two brought me to William Chris Vineyards, where, at a shady table overlooking the lush estate vineyards, I lingered over a floral blend of Blanc du Bois, Malvasia Bianca, and Moscato Giallo called Mary Ruth. At Ab Astris Winery, a newcomer located just over the glimmering Pedernales River, I encountered a minerally 2019 Clairette Blanche that made me hungry for fresh oysters. And at Texas stalwart Pedernales Cellars, I stretched out on a picnic blanket on the sprawling lawn and sipped on a tropical 2018 Albariño.

But my last appointment proved to be the most spectacular. Southold Farm and Cellar has one of the most stunning hilltop views in the entire Hill Country. The tasting room sits atop a lofty rise that offers a panoramic view of the region. Surprisingly, the winery got its start in Long Island in 2012 but transitioned to Texas&apos warmer climes in 2016, and winemaker Regan Meador has swiftly garnered a following for his lively, low-intervention wines. As I gazed out over rolling hills from the cozy porch swing of the farmhouse tasting room, I savored his nutty, skin-fermented Sing Sweet Things Albariño and thought to myself that when it came to Southold, New York&aposs loss was definitely our gain.

2018 Pedernales Cellars Texas Albariño ($20)

Fragrant, crisp apple and tropical fruit notes are the heart of this white.

2019 Ab Astris Aurora Rosé ($22)

A deep rosy hue leads to red-berry aromas and broad yet lifted flavors.

2017 Ron Yates friesen vineyards Tempranillo ($30)

This standout single-vineyard Tempranillo has rich dark fruit and tobacco notes.

2018 William Chris La Pradera Cinsault ($32)

An easy-drinking, playful red with cranberry and pomegranate flavors.

2018 Sandy Road Sangiovese ($34)

This earthy Sangiovese is elegantly structured, with rich notes of Bing cherry, mushroom, and savory herbs.

Great lakes and greater grapes.

I may be biasedਊs a native Michigander, but northern Michigan is one of the best-kept secrets in the country. Whenever I need an escape from it all, I head to the upper left corner of my mitten-shaped state to spend time amid the sweeping sand dunes, pristine lakes, and one of the most exciting up-and-coming wine regions in the country. Until recently, Michigan&aposs wines had a reputation for being cloyingly sweet: Think ice wines and super-sugary Rieslings. Now, thanks to a group of ambitious winemakers, there has never been a better time to drink them.

There are two main wine trails in this part of the state: Old Mission Peninsula, which runs up the middle of Grand Traverse Bay, and the Leelanau Peninsula, which runs along the west side of the bay. In the middle, at the bottom, sits Traverse City, an ideal base for winery-visiting. On a recent trip, hotel options were middling at best, but Airbnb options abounded. I rented a renovated farmhouse on the outskirts of the city, a three-minute drive from Farm Club, a photogenic place that&aposs a restaurant, brewery, bakery, and market𠅊nd a great spot to grab snacks like locally made cheese and crackers.

I set off the next morning armed with a hefty chilaquiles-stuffed burrito from Rose & Fern café and a foamy cappuccino from Mundos, a great local roaster, for Mission Point Lighthouse, the northernmost point of Old Mission Peninsula. I worked my way down, stopping off to try several wines from 2 Lads, where Oregon winemaker Thomas Houseman recently relocated. My favorite? A sparkling rosé that made a chilly day feel like summer. I kept driving, at times pulling over just to stare in awe at the breathtaking views of Lake Michigan, and finally arrived at Mari Vineyards. An impressive operation, it feels straight out of a Dan Brown novel thanks to the Knights Templar iconography on the building. This is where winemaker Sean O&aposKeefe spends his time, exploring hands-off winemaking techniques. Mari also happens to be just up the road from Chateau Grand Traverse, the first winery in the region, which O&aposKeefe&aposs father founded in 1974 and his family still owns.

A day of wine drinking, I found, is best sopped up with plates of housemade pasta and clever salads, like one crafted from paper-thin slices of celery and mushroom, from Stella Trattoria, which is arguably the most famous restaurant in the area, and for good reason. I woke up the next morning hungover—not from wine but instead from the sheer amount of carbohydrates I had managed to consume.

But I hauled myself out of bed regardless. It was time to head up the Leelanau Peninsula, which has nearly 30 wineries. First, I headed down a shady lane, to Shady Lane cellars, one of the only operations in the area with a female winemaker. I found their canned wine selection incredibly charming and grabbed a few before heading to one of the best-known vineyards in the area, Mawby. There, brothers Michael and Peter Liang make two labels: Mawby, which is known for sparkling wines with raucous names like Sex, and BigLittle, their younger label, which makes a number of easy-to-drink still wines.

Vineyards dot the landscape all the way north until you hit the towns of Leeland and Suttons Bay, either of which could be the setting of a Hallmark movie. Between them sits 9 Bean Rows, a tiny bakery that makes the best almond croissant I&aposve ever had. Proprietors Nic and Jen Welty also operate a pizza oven out back. I grabbed a fresh pie topped with artichoke hearts and a generous amount of mozzarella: the perfect road trip companion for the drive back down to Traverse City.

2019 Biglittle Open Road Rosé ($17)

Crisp red fruit notes make this easygoing rosé hard to resist.

2017 2 Lads Sparkling rosé ($28)

Winemaker Thomas Houseman crafts this bright, lime-scented sparkler almost entirely from Chardonnay. (It&aposs 1% Pinot Noir.)

2017 Shady Lane Cellars Blaufränkisch ($28)

Black-fruited with velvety tannins, this will win over anyone who&aposs never had Blaufränkisch before (basically, everybody).

2017 Mari Vineyards Simplicissimus ($36)

This bubbly from Sean O&aposKeefe is not quite a pét-nat, but not quite a traditional sparkling wine, either. One thing it definitely is, though? Delicious.

Long Island wines hit new heights.

Potatoes. On Long Island&aposs North Fork, those Cabernet vines you see? That land once grew potatoes. Merlot? Potatoes. Cabernet Franc? Chardonnay? Sauvignon Blanc? Potatoes, potatoes, potatoes. And while I&aposd be hard-pressed to make a choice between wine and french fries as something to strike from my life, I&aposm going to be bold and say that when it comes to a reason to visit a region, wine grapes win over spuds every time.

This assessment crossed my mind while I was sitting in one of the newly erected bungalows at Macari Vineyards, drinking a glass of the winery&aposs tangy Lifeforce Cabernet Franc (so dubbed because it ferments in a concrete egg) and eating truffle mac and cheese from local go-to caterer Lauren Lombardi. The bungalows are snazzy canvas tents where you can relax with your group in a socially distanced way. Like the catered lunch, the decor inside is locally furnished, and if you fall in love with the wool throw tossed over your chair or the serving bowl filled with farro, arugula, and roasted butternut squash salad, it&aposs probably for sale.

So, an admission: I hadn&apost spent a weekend in Long Island&aposs wine country in way too long. For a New York City resident (and a wine writer!), that&aposs unconscionable. But that gap did make me aware of how much has changed here: how the North Fork has drawn in some of Montauk&aposs Brooklyn-by-the-sea cool how its towns are burgeoning with excellent restaurants and boutique hotels how many wineries have popped into existence (or changed hands) and, particularly, how good the wines are right now.

At Rose Hill Vineyards, formerly Shinn Estate Vineyards, I eavesdropped on a local couple who&aposd stopped in after nine holes of golf. They were chatting with Jon Sidewitz, a tasting room server. "I can&apost believe all the homes going up out there," the woman said. The winery&aposs nonvintage red (current offering: a blend between 2017 and 2018) had the distinctive tobacco–sweet cherry scent of Cabernet Franc it was something nice to sip while pondering how one result of plague panic has been a boom in house sales here.

Wineries have done oddly well, too. Every one I visited reported being swamped during the summer of 2020. "By October, we were exhausted," Jerol Bailey, director of sales at Lenz Winery, told me. "We&aposre busy even now." Lenz is acclaimed for its old-vines Merlot, arguably the red grape that does best in Long Island&aposs variable maritime climate, and the 2013 was rich with spice and kirsch notes. But the real surprise for me was a lovely, lychee-scented dry Gewürztraminer, lime-zesty and vibrant. Winemaker Thomas Spotteck said, approvingly, "It&aposs got those punch-you-in-the-face aromatics." It certainly did, if getting punched in the face was a really great thing.

Despite the changes, the North Fork is still nothing like the Hamptons. It hasn&apost lost its agricultural roots, and in the summer, farmstands line the roads, selling sweet corn, ripe berries, leafy greens, and, yes, even potatoes. Local seafood is equally good, and at the Suhru Wines Tasting House in Cutchogue, over a glass of the only Teroldego I&aposve ever seen outside of Northern Italy—inky purple, earthy, peppery, delicious—sales and marketing director Shelby Hearn told me, "At least once a month I find a new oyster farmer. It&aposs like eggs. You stop by the side of the road and pick up a dozen."

Chef Stephan Bogardus uses all this abundance in his superb cooking at The Halyard, located at Sound View Greenport (rooms from $195, soundviewgreenport.com), a 1950s seaside motel recently spiffed up into early 21st-century cool. Bogardus adds depth to a local fluke tartare with miso and hijiki his seared Long Island duck breast was exquisitely tender thanks to six days of dry aging. If you&aposre offered the salty "biscuits with really good butter," say yes—the butter is indeed really good, and the biscuits are even better. Smuggle them out for breakfast the next morning. I did.

Then there&aposs the North Fork Table & Inn, a much-loved local icon recently taken over by exceptionally talented NYC chef John Fraser. Dishes like his mysteriously light tempura squash, decorated with flower petals from the biodynamic farm just down the road, are not to be missed. Nor is beverage director Amy Racine&aposs impressive list, which splits 50-50 between local bottles and international choices. Initially, she planned to skew more toward Europe, she told me, but "the guests were much more interested in local wines than I expected. And I was really blown away by a lot of them, too. Like some of the old Macari Bergen Road reds I tasted and then put on—those wines have aged beautifully."

Fraser is emblematic in a way of how much is going on out here: He&aposs also opening a 20-room hotel this summer just down the road, right on Peconic Bay, and a market-café just down the same road but in the other direction. Yet for all the new ventures, nearby Southold Fish Market still brings in porgies, stripers, day-boat scallops, and more off the fishing boats every morning. And in Greenport, while I loved staying at the boutiquey Menhaden hotel (rooms from $559, themenhaden.com), with its roof deck looking past flitting gulls to the sea I also loved the fact that it was right next to the town&aposs straight-out-of-the-1950s George D. Costello Senior Memorial Skating Rink. As Fraser had said to me: "We&aposre not dealing with the perfectly polished Hamptons thing here. And that&aposs great."

2016 Lenz Winery Gewürztraminer ($20)

With its telltale scent of lychee fruit, this white is one of many fine bottles in the Lenz portfolio. Don&apost miss the winery&aposs graphite-scented Estate Selection Merlot, either.

2019 Macari Horses Sparkling Cabernet Franc ($26)

This lightly fizzy sparkler has lovely red fruit flavors, and the name is a nod to the bluffs at the edge of Macari&aposs property, which suggest the shape of a horse&aposs head𠅊nd were used by 1920s bootleggers as a covert route to the sea.

NV Shinn Estate Vineyards Red Blend ($25)

A classic Bordeaux-style blend, this red is plump with ripe cherry fruit and lifted by a dried tobacco note for this release, longtime winemaker Patrick Caserta blended wines from the 2017 and 2018 vintages.

2019 Suhru wines Teroldego ($30)

Teroldego is an unusual enough grape in Italy, where it grows almost exclusively in the northern Trentino region. So, Long Island Teroldego? If this earthy, spicy red is any indication, the grape has found an excellent second home.

Last summer,ꃞsperate to go somewhere (anywhere!), I rented an RV. A visit to the Grand Canyon was on my bucket list, so I made it the starting point for a weekend in Arizona&aposs wine country, which promised to marry an encore of dramatic landscapes with distinct and travel-worthy wines.

I started my jaunt in Verde Valley, one of the state&aposs three wine regions. A morning&aposs drive from the canyon landed me at Merkin Vineyards Tasting Room & Osteria, opened by Maynard James Keenan, the frontman of the rock band Tool turned winemaker of Merkin Vineyards and Caduceus Cellars. While digging into pillowy gnocchi blanketed in a sage-scented cream sauce, I sampled a brambly red called Tarzan and a dry rosé called Jane. Stuffy, Arizona is not, I decided𠅊n impression reinforced on the welcoming open-air patio of nearby Chateau Tumbleweed, which makes focused, refreshing wines like a mouthwatering Vermentino that smelled deliciously of lemon peel, and Willy, a garnet-colored Grenache blend with fine tannins. From there, I headed to D.A. Ranch, an estate winery where the inky wines and verdant property felt like a mirage after a day of desert landscapes—though I admit it did make me briefly regret the RV.

For day two, I headed south to the Sonoita region. The towering rock formations of central Arizona had given way to undulating grasslands before I pulled up to Callaghan Vineyards, where winemaker Kent Callaghan has been relentlessly experimenting, changing what he grows every year, for three decades now. "The soil here lends itself to ageworthy wines," he said𠅊 claim that his 2014 Lisa&aposs, with its apricot aromas, backs up. Callaghan&aposs innovative approach is reflected in the work of those he&aposs mentored in the region, including Todd and Kelly Bostock of Dos Cabezas. At their tasting room, a wood-fired pizza truck turns out pizzas to pair with their boundary-pushing wines, which included an unlikely but delicious white blend, Meskeoli, made from Albariño, Viognier, Malvasia, Roussanne, Petit Manseng, and Kerner, and a "perpetual cuvພ" containing vintages from 2015 through 2019. "These would not have found love anywhere but Arizona, &aposcause other places got rules," Todd said with a laugh.

The exploratory mindset of the state&aposs winemakers makes Arizona a thrilling place to visit and taste right now. Pavle Milic, beverage director and co-owner of Scottsdale&aposs FnB restaurant, embodies that exuberance at Los Milics, his new winery in Elgin. I stood with Milic among his vines, ringed by mountains, as he described his vision: the tasting room that will immerse guests in the vineyards, the guesthouses that will drink in the star-filled sky. "It will be a little suspension of reality," he said. Then we went inside, and I tasted his vibrant wines straight from the barrels𠅍ry, flinty Grenache and lush Tempranillo𠅊nd promised myself I&aposd be back as soon as they opened this summer. But this time hopefully by plane.


Cooking Instructions

  • Remove any large fatty membrane (Note: the silverskin is more easily removed after cooking). Cut beef cheeks into roughly identical sizes if needed, then pat dry and apply salt and pepper liberally to both sides.
  • Pre-heat your oven to 325.

The enamal-covered cast iron pot from Lodge is ideal for this dish, but any heavy-bottom pot wil do if it has a good lid that can prevent the liquids from evaporating.

  • On your stovetop, heat a heavy-bottomed pot over high heat for 2-3 minutes. When at full temperature, add 2Tbsp of the olive oil and immediately add the beef cheeks. Sear for
  • Once nicely browned on both sides, turn the heat down to Medium and remove the cheeks to a platter. Cover with a tent of foil.
  • Drizzle a Tbsp of oil into the heated pot and immediately add the onion, carrot and celery, reserving the minced garlic for the next step. Stir lazily until the onion begins to become opaque – about 3-5 minutes.
  • Add the minced garlic and sauté for another 3-5 minutes.
  • Pour in the 2 cups of wine, scraping the fond from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula so it integrates into the liquid. Simmer for a good minute.
  • Return the cheeks to the pot along with any juices they’ve released. Add the remaining ingredients – beef broth, bay leaves and thyme sprigs – then cover the pot with a lid and place in oven for 2.5 hours (or until the meat is very tender), turning once about half way through the total 5-hour cooking time.
  • Some 2.5 hours later, remove the pot from the oven and the beef cheeks from the pot – careful, they may be falling apart – and set them aside again under a tent of foil. BTW, you can turn the oven off now.
  • Remove from the heat, return the cheeks to the sauce along with any of the released juices, cover and keep warm until ready to serve.

A Fall Chili Dish for Every Personality

Looking for the best fall chili recipe? It’s time to drive the coziness factor into full effect. Oversized sweaters, warm blankets, and—most importantly—comfort food are essential staples for the cooler months. If you’re going to be stuck indoors, a delicious meal is obviously in order.

Chili is one of the great dishes for the fall and winter. It’s hearty, filling, and hits the spot when temperatures are less than pleasing. No rainy Sunday dinner or afternoon spent watching football is complete without a bowl.

Know Your Bowl What Is the Difference Between Cincinnati, Texas, and Classic Chili? Though no one will dispute its taste, the origins of chili are relatively mysterious—except for the fact that it did not come from Mexico like most people believe (even though some of its main ingredients did). Some will argue that immigrants from the Canary Islands who settled in Texas in the 1700s brought along their chili recipes. Then, there is a fable that suggests a nun was inspired to create chili con carne (beans and meat) after the idea came to her in a trance —quite the stroke of luck! Others believe that things got cookin’ in the late 1800s with the creation of chili powder.

Regardless of how chili made its way to America, you just have to be grateful that it did. After all, what’s better than a few scoops for your Saturday lunch? Recipes often call for kidney beans because they amp up the flavors of the spices and take the heat well (and you know things are going to get hot). However, there is the opportunity to get creative and add other beans to the mix, depending on what you’re preparing. Cannellini beans can do the trick as well.

No matter the type of bean, one thing’s for certain: There’s a recipe for everyone. Hungry carnivores and veggie-only eaters will find a chili dish to their liking. Since that’s the case, now is the time to satisfy those winter food cravings. You can heat up the kitchen this season with these myriad of options (or all if you’re feeling adventurous).


Recipe Summary

  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • 2 ½ pounds beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes
  • salt and ground black pepper to taste
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • 1 onion, diced
  • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons ancho chile powder
  • 2 teaspoons Spanish paprika
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • ½ teaspoon ground black pepper
  • ½ teaspoon chipotle chile powder
  • ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • ½ teaspoon dried oregano
  • 1 (10 ounce) can diced tomatoes with green chile peppers
  • 1 ¼ cups water
  • ⅛ cup ground corn chips (Optional)
  • ⅛ cup chopped fresh cilantro
  • ⅛ cup chopped green onions

Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Season beef generously with salt and black pepper place meat in the skillet and cook until brown on all sides, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer to plate and set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil over medium-low heat in the pot of a pressure cooker. Stir onion and garlic into pot cook until almost translucent, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in ancho chile powder, paprika, cumin, black pepper, chipotle chile powder, cayenne pepper, and oregano cook until fragrant, 2 minutes. Add diced tomatoes, beef, and water stir to combine.

Lock the lid of your pressure cooker. Increase heat to high and bring to full pressure. Reduce heat to low to maintain pressure cook for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest 10 minutes. Ensure that pressure is fully released and remove the lid.

Return uncovered pressure cooker to burner over high heat. Stir in corn chips and bring to a boil cook for 5 minutes. Garnish with cilantro and green onion.


Ingredients

  • 8 ounces uncooked wide egg noodles
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 12 ounces cremini mushrooms, quartered
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
  • 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 5 garlic cloves, minced
  • 3/4 cup reduced-fat sour cream
  • 1/4 cup 2% reduced-fat milk
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/3 cup chopped green onions

Nutritional Information

  • Calories 461
  • Fat 16g
  • Satfat 6.5g
  • Monofat 6g
  • Polyfat 1g
  • Protein 24g
  • Carbohydrate 56g
  • Fiber 5g
  • Cholesterol 116mg
  • Iron 4mg
  • Sodium 480mg
  • Calcium 155mg
  • Sugars 5g
  • Est. added sugars 0g

What to Consider When Buying a New Cooler

The best cooler for you will depend on several factors, such as your intended use, how much you need to hold, and how much you have to spend. Most larger coolers will be filled with ice and used to hold drinks and food.

Smaller coolers may only need to hold a few bottles of water or a picnic lunch. Ice packs will be preferable in those circumstances. But coolers can also be used to hold hot dishes before a meal, chill food quickly for long-term storage, or hold fish fresh from the water.

Here we&aposll break down the difference between some of the most popular coolers so you can decide which one is a fit for you. The right cooler for your needs may not be the most expensive, so consider some of these tips to make sure you&aposre not overspending — and to make sure you&aposre not getting one that won&apost fit your needs.

Price: Some of the best coolers on the market can set you back $400 or more. These coolers are designed for days of use in rugged environments (camping, hunting, etc.), and they back up their price point with high-quality materials like steel hinges and latches. But some of the most highly-reviewed coolers cost less than $100. Don&apost assume you have to sink some savings into your next cooler. Based on your needs, the best cooler for you may very well be only $50 to $100.

Capacity: Coolers range in size from small five-quart lunch coolers to extra-large totes that can conceal 125 quarts, or about 200 cans. The bigger the cooler, the more you can put in it. But the more you put in it, the more it will weigh.

Material: Hard-sided coolers are typically made from double-walled plastic. Some are insulated with foam. As a result, they tend to be more durable and stand up to use, impact, and transportation well. Soft-sided coolers may be made from neoprene, flexible plastics, canvas, and other easy-to-clean materials. They can also typically be flattened for easier storage.

Intended Use: If you&aposre a fan of camping, hunting, hiking, and all other outdoor activities, you likely need the durability and large capacity of a hard-sided cooler. Perhaps you need one with wheels for easy transport from your car to your camp site. But if you&aposre just looking to have a cooler you keep on hand for picnics or tailgating, you can save your money and consider a small cooler or even a soft-sided one in many cases.


6. Chile

Like Greece, Chile’s expansive terroir means winemakers have the benefits of mountains, coastal climes, and sun-soaked valleys to play with. Put it all together, and Chilean wines offer plenty of versatility in your glass.

While it’s true that Chile used to be a go-to for the super-cheap (and often forgettable) stuff, quality has skyrocketed in recent years, thanks again to a younger generation of producers focused on quality via low yields and more natural winemaking methods.

Now, Chile is one of the southern hemisphere’s most promising growing regions, offering up approachable expressions of sauvignon blanc and chardonnay alongside deep, powerful reds from carménère, cabernet sauvignon and carignane (the “three C’s”). Carménère is an especially exciting grape for the region, as it’s one of the only places in the world that grows the Bordeaux variety, and certainly the only one where it’s so widely planted. If you’re a Left Bank Bordeaux lover, or even a Cabernet Franc lover, look for bottles of this unique grape for power and age-worthiness. Check out producers like Veramonte and Emiliana for a laissez-faire approach to winemaking that results in deep, soulful wines.


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